Some sort of shelter from the weather is nice
to have, especially with wood boats. My Building Book describes
building a visqueen covered shed but the problem with it is that
if you live in snow country, it can cave in unless you have a
hell of a peak. I've spent MANY nights on ladders, flashlight
in my teeth, raking snow off roofs that weren't peaked enough.
I through with that stuff and would build this sort of building
next time.
Ive seen people make bow buildings before and
Ive always liked them. The good side of them is that they
will take a real snow load because the snow just slides off. And
they appear simple to build too. Ken Wells, who lives in Ohio
or Egypt or one of those middle states that has lots of snow,
humidity, bugs, republican voters and such, built the building
in this photo and wrote the description. It looks like just the
thing. And, when youre through building the boat, I think
you could disassemble the building and sell the bows!
Green house grade visqueen can be bought at any good
garden wholesaler. It comes in 6 mil rolls very wide and long.
It stands up to the sun for years. Plastic tarps work too. The
blue ones are the cheapest and are junk. Use the gray; they last
much longer. And two layers of tarp or plastic makes enough air
barrier where it wont condensate inside! A single layer
in weather where it freezes will freeze on the inside, then drip
on your head all day. Awful. Anyway, here's Ken's comments and
photo.
"Working alone, construction took about
50 hrs. for a 25' x 45' x 20' high building. The frames are 1
x 3 strapping
with 2 x 4 spacers. they sit on a 2' high knee wall which is anchored
to the ground with 5' steel fence posts. It's attached to the
end of my shop in two places at the roof line. I covered it with
two heavy silver plastic tarps joined at the ridge. The ends are
covered with clear poly sheet. Total cost, which includes a load
of gravel to level the floor was about $1000. or less than a dollar
a sq. ft"

You'll need some sort of form to bend the 1-by around. It seems to me when I saw it done they had driven a couple 2-bys in the ground, maybe 4, in the arc they wanted. You clamp the first layer of 1-by to the 2x4s, screw or nail the spacers (2x4 x 4" maybe), then clamp the inside 1-by to the spacers and screw it down. Actually, I think I'd tack a piece of 1/4" or 3/8" ply to the spacer to make it wider than 1 1/2" so it would be easy to slide the 2x4 horizontals in. Make enough bows to have one every 4'. Attach the bows together at the top with 1/2" CDX plywood, 12" or so deep, both sides. Notch the very peak so you can put a 2x4 on edge to connect everything. You'll see horizontal stringers in this photo; use 2x4s and space them no wider than 4' and the building will be very strong. Again, if things are screwed together you can take it apart and probably sell the thing when finished with your project.